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Ceuta Eclipse

Guide to the total solar eclipse of 2 August 2027 in Ceuta.

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How to photograph the eclipse in Ceuta without missing it

The first piece of advice is the least popular: if this is your first total eclipse, do not photograph it. The 4 minutes and 48 seconds vanish in an instant while you fight the camera, and the picture you get will be worse than the thousands that already exist. If you are going to do it anyway, here is what to know.

Published 17 August 2026

Photographing a total eclipse has one complication built in: it is two radically different scenes separated by a single second. The partial phase is the brightest object in the sky and demands a strong solar filter. Totality is a faint object — the corona — that demands taking it off. You have to make that change at C2, at 10:45, and undo it at C3, at 10:50, in a hurry and with your pulse up.

The filter is not optional, and it is not an ND

For the partial phase you need a solar filter in front of the lens: solar film or a glass filter designed for solar observation. A photographic neutral-density filter will not do, even if the histogram looks right: it does not block infrared, and a telephoto pointed at the Sun can damage the sensor and, on a camera with an optical viewfinder, your eye. The filter goes in front of the lens, never behind it.

Two different setups, and one change mid-eventPartial phaseWITH a solar filterFilterSolar, over the lensISO100Aperturef/8Shutter1/500 – 1/2000 sFocusManual, at infinityTotalityNO filter, here onlyFilterOff, as soon as C2 startsISO400 – 800Aperturef/5.6 – f/8ShutterBracket: 1/1000 to 1 sFocusDo not touch itA starting point, not gospel: rehearse on the Moon at home before eclipse day
A starting point for both phases. Exact values depend on your filter and your gear: test them on the Sun beforehand, not on eclipse day.

Which focal length

  • 200–300 mm full frame: the Sun comes out small but with context, and it forgives tracking errors. A good choice for a first attempt.
  • 400–600 mm: the disc fills a reasonable part of the frame and the corona still fits. This is the classic range.
  • Over 800 mm: only on a very stable mount. The inner corona gets cropped and tracking becomes demanding.
  • Wide angle: the best photograph almost nobody takes. With the Sun at 38° it will not share a frame with the landscape without a very generous wide angle and a vertical composition, but a wide shot with a darkened sky, an orange horizon and people looking up tells the story far better than an isolated black disc.

Planning specific to Ceuta

In Ceuta the Sun will be around 38° high at an azimuth of roughly 95°. That rules out the "eclipse right above the walls" telephoto shot from the start: at that altitude the Sun and any ground-level reference do not share a frame. The two compositions that do work are the tight shot of the disc, from anywhere, and the very wide landscape, where the Sun is small but the darkened scene does the work.

Rehearse on the Moon, and rehearse on the Sun

Test focus, filter and exposures weeks in advance: the Sun has the same apparent size on any day of the year, so one filtered session in June answers every exposure question you have. And practise removing the filter blind: on eclipse day you will have one second and you will not want to be hunting for the thread.
30°60°38°above the horizonNEESES95°Where to lookComfortably high, east-southeast: almost nothing blocks it
The Sun's altitude and direction dictate the framing: at this height it will not share a frame with the landscape without a very generous wide angle.

Bracketing totality

The corona has an enormous dynamic range: the inner part is thousands of times brighter than the outer. There is no single correct exposure — there are several. The standard approach is a wide bracket, 1/1000 s to 1 s, two or three stops between frames, combined afterwards. With 4 minutes and 48 seconds of totality there is time for two full brackets and still time to look up.

And with a phone

A phone is not going to take a good picture of the eclipsed disc: the focal length is short and the disc comes out as a dot. What it does superbly is the other thing: video of the atmosphere. The light collapsing, people shouting, the orange horizon. That is the footage nobody has afterwards and everybody wants. Set it recording on a small tripod a minute before C2 and forget about it. And do not point it at the Sun unfiltered during the partial phase: the sensor pays for it.

And the golden rule: give the first twenty seconds of totality to looking, with no camera in your hands. It is the one irreplaceable moment of the day; the photograph can wait twenty seconds.

Frequently asked questions

Can I photograph the eclipse without a solar filter?

Only during totality, between 10:45 and 10:50 in Ceuta. The partial phase needs a solar filter in front of the lens; a photographic neutral-density filter will not do because it does not block infrared and can damage the sensor.

What lens do I need to photograph the eclipse?

400 to 600 mm on full frame is the classic range: the disc fills much of the frame and the corona still fits. At 200-300 mm it comes out smaller but is easier to track. A wide angle serves a different and often better photograph: the darkened landscape under a twilight sky.

Is it worth photographing my first total eclipse?

Most experienced photographers say no. Totality is short, the technical sequence is demanding, and the result will struggle to beat the pictures that already exist. A reasonable alternative: record ambient video on a phone on a tripod, and watch the eclipse with your eyes.

The illustrations are our own, and any figures shown in them come from the same Besselian computation as the tables elsewhere on the site. Sources and method

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